The Impact of War on Cosmetic Treatment Access in Russia

I regularly visit a cosmetic clinic for procedures like Botox and other treatments. However, given the current events such as the war between Russia and Ukraine, I am concerned about the availability and quality of cosmetic products for procedures and injectables. I fear that my skin will suffer and start looking bad without access to these products. Could you provide insights on the potential consequences of not continuing with cosmetic procedures? Is it dangerous to stop these procedures if one’s skin has become accustomed to them? Are there ways to maintain good skin health without relying on a cosmetologist?


Choosing to forgo cosmetic procedures is not inherently unsafe. In reality, there are always potential risks associated with any cosmetic intervention.

It is unlikely that cosmetic procedures will become completely inaccessible, but there may be changes in pricing and quality. Moreover, it is important to remember that skin health is primarily influenced by genetics, lifestyle, and the skincare products one uses regularly, rather than occasional cosmetic procedures.

Types of cosmetic procedures

There are three types of cosmetic procedures, which include injection, apparatus, and skincare methods.

Injectable procedures

Injectable cosmetic procedures are typically performed using a syringe to inject a substance into or beneath the skin. The most common injectable procedures include Botox therapy and contouring.

Botox therapy is intended to reduce the appearance of wrinkles caused by facial expressions, while contouring involves injecting substances like hyaluronic acid or fillers to help smooth out wrinkles and modify the facial features, such as enhancing the lips or cheeks.

Procedures with equipment

Specialized equipment is used to carry out cosmetic procedures, which emit various forms of energy such as laser waves, light, heat, radio waves, and vibrations, all of which impact the skin. The selection of equipment for a particular cosmetic procedure is based on the client’s skin properties and requirements, with numerous devices available for this purpose.

Skincare procedures

Skincare treatments typically involve the application of various cosmetic products, such as chemical peels, manual massages, and masks, which can have a temporary impact on the skin’s appearance and texture. However, once the effects wear off, the skin typically returns to its natural state.

How will the crisis affect cosmetic procedures?

The use of various products is dependent on the type of procedure, and the crisis may impact certain procedures.

Products

AbbVie, an American company, has halted the delivery of Botox and fillers, including the sought-after Juvederm line, to Russia since March 16. Clinics are expected to exhaust their remaining stock and seek alternatives, as Russian and South Korean-made fillers continue to be available for the time being.

Russia currently has several botulinum therapy products on the market, such as Dysport from Ipsen in France, Relatox from Microgen in Russia, Xeomin from Merz Aesthetics in Germany, and Botulax from Hugel in South Korea.

In the event of a product shortage that renders injectable procedures unavailable, cosmetic and plastic surgeons may begin to offer alternative services in place of these procedures.

Equipment

Procuring new equipment and supplies has become increasingly challenging due to the predominant use of European and American technology. Clinics may experience delays in the acquisition of new equipment and therefore continue to operate with their existing equipment.

If disposable supplies cannot be delivered to Russia, it is likely that procedures that require such supplies will be cancelled. For instance, if the supply of disposable attachments for fractional RF-lifting ceases, the procedure will become unavailable.

Cosmetics

Numerous companies and brands have halted their cosmetic supplies to Russia, forcing clinics to discontinue certain skincare procedures or replace the cosmetics they previously used that are no longer available.

Local cosmetics manufacturers are encountering issues as their production equipment and raw materials were imported, leading to a breakdown in traditional logistical connections and cooperation. As a result, they are currently relying on their existing stocks and searching for alternative delivery routes and substitutes, which is a slow process that can take up to a year. Additionally, the shortage of foreign cosmetics and drugs is expected to lead to an increase in the market for counterfeit and low-quality cosmetics. Therefore, it is essential to be cautious when selecting a clinic and a cosmetologist, especially given that the risk of receiving poor-quality services in Russia was already high before.

How safe are cosmetic procedures?

Every cosmetic procedure entails inherent risks, ranging from temporary skin changes to irreversible consequences. For example, improper use of botulinum toxin injections can result in a temporary drooping of the eyelid, which eventually returns to its normal state once the product wears off. Similarly, if fillers are administered too frequently or in excessive amounts, they may grow into or migrate to adjacent skin tissues, necessitating surgical intervention for correction. Additionally, misuse of equipment may cause burns or severe irritation, such as redness, peeling, or pain.

The likelihood of complications varies based on the qualifications and experience of the practitioner conducting the procedures. Ideally, the practitioner should be a cosmetologist with a higher medical education in “Pediatrics” or “Medical Practice” and specialized in “Cosmetology.” Some cosmetologists have secondary medical education and are permitted to perform prescribed procedures but cannot recommend or prescribe them.

It is crucial to undergo procedures only in licensed medical facilities with specialized equipment.

What will happen to prices?

Procedures involving equipment that do not require consumables are likely to experience the least impact from the increase in prices. This means that procedures using IPL, BBL, or M22 machines may maintain their current cost. However, if a clinic acquired equipment following the imposition of sanctions, it may need to charge higher prices to recoup the purchase cost.

On the other hand, injection and skincare procedures are expected to experience the most significant price increase. Cosmetics retailers have already raised their prices by 40-70%. To counteract the price hike, clinics may look for alternatives from local or Asian manufacturers.

What will happen to the cosmetics market in Russia and what should patients do?

On the Russian market, there are alternatives to “Botox” available, such as “Relatox” and “Miotox”. Additionally, there is no cause for concern regarding biorevitalization since there are Russian and South Korean analogues of fillers available. While Russian fillers are relatively new, South Korean fillers have been available for some time.

However, it is likely that imported fillers and botulinum toxin will still be in demand. Ipsen has officially announced that it will continue to supply the market with the drug “Dysport,” which is included in the list of essential drugs used for both therapeutic and aesthetic purposes. Similarly, Merz Aesthetics, the manufacturer of “Xeomin,” has made a similar statement.

I anticipate that the list of services provided by clinics will remain the same but at different prices. The cost of injection cosmetology has already increased and is expected to continue rising due to the escalating prices of drugs and consumables. Similarly, the cost of care procedures will also vary due to the same reason.

Regarding procedures that invovle equipment, the price will depend on the availability of disposable attachments, which are currently in short supply.

I strongly advise against performing procedures at home in an attempt to save money. Unfortunately, “gray” cosmetology may increase. I also do not recommend panicking and hastily undergoing all procedures. Clinics purchased drugs with their turnover in mind. Stick to the treatment plan prepared by your doctor and modify it based on your financial capabilities.

How to maintain skin health without cosmetic procedures

While cosmetic procedures are not essential, they can improve self-esteem and overall well-being by enhancing one’s appearance. Additionally, some cosmetic procedures can aid in treating skin diseases.

Certain procedures have a cumulative effect and require regular treatment to achieve a specific outcome. However, this does not apply to botulinum therapy and contouring, as overuse may result in unwanted and challenging to correct results.

On the other hand, there is no need to fear that interrupting a course of treatment or discontinuing the use of certain products will harm the skin more than it was before undergoing cosmetic treatment. The state of the skin is affected by other factors such as genetics, lifestyle, and environmental influences once the cosmetic effect fades away.

Thus, it is important to recognize that genetics, lifestyle, and daily skincare products have a considerable impact on the skin. Even if cosmetic procedures become too costly or are unavailable, there are still steps that individuals can take to care for their skin, such as modifying their lifestyle and selecting appropriate skincare products for at-home use.

Lifestyle

The health of our skin is closely tied to our overall well-being. Stress can exacerbate chronic skin conditions, while insufficient sleep can result in puffy eyes and dark circles. Therefore, it is crucial to maintain a healthy lifestyle and adhere to a proper daily routine, including exercise and a nutritious diet, to support optimal skin health.

Home care

While cosmetic procedures are typically performed by a cosmetologist, home care involves the use of cosmetic products on one’s own. Basic skin needs can be met with just three products: a cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen, all selected according to one’s skin type. Additional products may be necessary to address specific concerns or slow the skin’s aging process.

It is not recommended to attempt to create homemade cosmetics in the kitchen, as professional products are manufactured with strict bacteriological control and contain preservatives to prevent spoilage. Furthermore, cosmetics are specifically formulated to address the structure and needs of the skin.

Using fruits, berries, vegetables, and other food products on the skin is also not recommended, as the nutrients they provide are better absorbed when ingested rather than applied topically. Instead, consume these foods to obtain vitamins, antioxidants, and other beneficial nutrients.

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