What is laser hair removal?

Laser hair removal is one of the most effective and successful methods for removing unwanted hair, both for women and men. The method was discovered in the 1970s and was approved by the FDA in 1997.

The procedure works by exposing the hair follicle to laser light, which heats the melanin pigment and the hemoglobin in the capillaries that feed it. As a result, both the hair follicle and the vessel are destroyed. The hair falls out two weeks after the epilation. The result is immediately visible, as the hair looks stubbly after the session.

The usual course of hair removal consists of 5-10 sessions with a frequency of once every 4-6 weeks.

It is not possible to do it faster. The reason is that not all the hair we have is visible on the skin: in normal conditions, part of the hair follicles are in a sleeping state while other hairs are actively growing.

The life cycle of each hair consists of three phases. The first is the growth phase, or anagen. This is followed by an intermediate degradation of the follicle part – catagen. Then there is a period of rest when growth does not occur, or the telogen phase. Then everything repeats.

For effective hair removal, the laser must damage one or more growth centers of the hair in the anagen phase. However, the duration of this phase can be different: it depends on the age and gender of the person, the area of the body, the level of hormones and the genetic predisposition. Moreover, hair grows at different speeds in winter and summer.

The intensity of hair growth in different parts of the body

Body area	Percentage of hair in anagen phase	Duration of telogen phase
Head	85%	4 months
Chin	70%	10 months
Upper lip	65%	6 months
Armpits	30%	3 months
Bikini	30%	3 months
Legs	20%	4 months

With regular laser hair removal sessions, over time all the hairs will be exposed to the laser in the anagen phase and will stop growing. Maintenance procedures will need to be performed every 6 to 12 months as new awakened hairs appear on the skin.

For whom is laser hair removal not recommended?

The laser hair removal procedure has a number of contraindications and we must take them into account:

• Pregnancy and breastfeeding.
• Herpes in the area of ​​epilation during an exacerbation.
• Diabetes in a stage of decompensation, as skin regeneration is impaired.
• Chronic skin diseases in an exacerbation stage such as vitiligo, red flat lichen, psoriasis: laser may trigger new sites of skin damage.
• Oncological diseases without prior consultation with an oncologist.
• Uterine fibroids without prior consultation with a gynecologist.
• Keloid and hypertrophic scars in the epilation area.
• Epilepsy without prior consultation with a neurologist.
• Taking tuberculosis drugs.

After each epilation procedure, patients should protect their skin from the sun to avoid pigmentation on the treated area. A sunscreen with an SPF of no less than 30-50 is suitable for this, which should be applied 20 minutes before going outside and updated every hour and a half to two hours.

What types of lasers are there?

If you have decided on such a hair removal procedure, first of all you need to choose the type of laser. Its variety will depend on the effectiveness and safety of the procedure.

To minimize the risk of damage to skin cells that also produce melanin pigment, you need to choose a laser based on the features of your appearance.

Thinking about laser hair removal? Here’s what you need to know — The Conversation, 2019

Ruby lasers were among the first devices used to combat unwanted hair. It emits red light with a wavelength of 694 nm. Due to high melanin absorption, ruby lasers are most effective for hair removal for people with light skin – Fitzpatrick skin types I-III – with dark hair.

The Alexandrite laser provides deeper penetration at 755 nm, making it relatively safe for individuals with darker skin types I-IV according to the Fitzpatrick scale.

The Diode laser has a longer wavelength of 800-1000 nm, with a specialized cooling system for the skin and a longer pulse duration, allowing for effective hair removal for individuals with darker skin.

The Neodymium laser has a wavelength of 1064 nm. The low melanin absorption at this wavelength combined with the cooling device makes this laser a safe option for hair removal for people with the darkest skin, types III-VI according to the Fitzpatrick scale.

The Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) device provides a broad spectrum of emission with wavelengths of 550-1200 nm. It is suitable for people with any skin type.

How to prepare for a laser hair removal session

According to expert recommendations, it is necessary to consult a dermatologist about possible contraindications before the procedure, to verify the qualifications of the master and the availability of certificates at the clinic.

Study the documents. The clinic should have a license for medical activity and a registration certificate for a medical device — the laser hair removal machine. The cosmetologist should have a diploma in higher or secondary medical education and certificates of training for work with a laser machine.

Do not pluck hair, do not wax, do not use an epilator, but you can use shaving creams or depilation. This is necessary to preserve the hair root on which the laser will act.

Shave the hair on the treated area. In the first months it is better to do this one or two days before the laser hair removal session, later, when the hair grows slower, you can shave less often. The heat generated by the part of the hair above the skin surface may cause pain.

It is advisable to schedule the procedure no later than a week before the expected menstruation, and no earlier than a week after it starts. During this period, the pain threshold is reduced, there is a risk that the hair removal will cause discomfort.

How does the procedure go

At the beginning of the procedure, the master will ask you to put on protective glasses, treat the skin with antiseptic, and possibly apply a cooling gel. Then he will adjust the laser to the necessary power, the choice of which depends on the area being treated and the sensitivity of the skin. Then the master will attach the device nozzle to the skin, followed by a flash: at this moment, the light beam destroys the hair follicles. Then the doctor moves the nozzle to the next section of the body, and so on until the end of the procedure covers the entire necessary area of ​​the skin. One laser hair removal procedure for hands and feet, face, underarms, and bikini takes from one to one and a half hours.

In general, the hair removal procedure is painless, however, if you feel a burning sensation, like a burn, it is necessary to tell the master. As a rule, in this case, the power of the device can be reduced. After laser processing, the master removes the remnants of the cooling gel from the skin and applies panthenol to calm the skin. After the procedure, it looks slightly red and swollen, but this does not cause discomfort: you can plan a meeting and any business immediately after the session. The skin will return to its normal state within a few hours or a day. It is recommended to avoid sun exposure and use sunscreens for 2-3 weeks after the procedure.

What result the patient got from laser hair removal

Laser hair removal was utilized to eliminate unwanted hair in all areas.

Arms

The patient, a woman, was initially apprehensive about undergoing laser hair removal, as she needed to shave the treatment area before the procedure. However, after the first session, she noticed that the hair growth in the treatment area became less frequent and lighter in color and texture. The patient experienced continued improvement in the results of her laser hair removal treatment, which increased her confidence. As a result, she no longer felt self-conscious about her hairy arms and was able to wear clothing with open arms without hesitation, feeling a sense of freedom that was difficult to articulate.

Legs

The patient noticed the positive effects of laser hair removal after their first session, including reduced frequency of hair growth and gradual fading of inflammation. New hair growth was minimal and thin, requiring occasional maintenance procedures. The patient expressed satisfaction with the procedure, experiencing no discomfort or inflammation and a significant reduction in time spent shaving. Prior to the procedure, the patient had struggled with dense and dark leg hair and had tried various depilation methods, which resulted in painful pimples due to hair follicle inflammation.

After completing the laser hair removal sessions, new hair growth was minimal and appeared in small, thin patches. To maintain the results, maintenance procedures will be required every 3-4 months in the first few years and 1-2 times in subsequent years. The patient was extremely satisfied with the results of the laser hair removal on their legs, as they experienced no discomfort from newly growing hair or inflammation and saved time by not having to shave daily.

The patient had previously not thought a light stubble above their upper lip was unaesthetic, but after receiving input from male acquaintances, they chose to remove it. Additionally, the patient had occasional instances of one or two dark hairs appearing on their chin that would grow quickly and required weekly plucking, sometimes requiring the purchase of tweezers while on vacation.

The hair on the patient’s chin took the longest to disappear after the laser hair removal procedure. The doctor explained that this is a common occurrence as the skin on the face is slightly darker than on the body, making it more difficult for the laser to detect and remove the hair. After the ninth procedure, the patient no longer noticed new hairs on their chin and was pleased with the results.

Face

The patient presented with light stubble above their upper lip, which they were previously unaware was perceived as unaesthetic. However, after receiving feedback from male acquaintances, they elected to undergo laser hair removal treatment. The patient also experienced occasional growth of one or two dark hairs on their chin that required weekly plucking, sometimes leading to the need to purchase tweezers while traveling.

During the treatment, the patient noted that hair on the chin took the longest to disappear due to the skin in that area being slightly darker, making it more challenging for the laser to detect and remove the hair. After the 9th session, the patient reported no new hair growth on the chin and expressed satisfaction with the results.

Under the armpits

The patient noticed positive results in her underarm hair after undergoing the first two laser hair removal sessions. The hair became finer, lighter, and the itching sensation previously experienced after shaving was eliminated. The treatment was effective in resolving a previous issue for the patient. Following the treatment, the hair became so minimal that shaving was only required once every two to three weeks prior to her next session. By the end of the treatment, hair growth had ceased completely, leading to reduced sweating. The patient was highly satisfied with the outcome of the laser hair removal treatment and found it liberating to wear sleeveless clothing and raise her arms confidently, including during photo opportunities.

Bikini area

The patient reported experiencing practical and aesthetic benefits following the laser hair removal procedure in their bikini area. They had previously experienced discomfort and skin irritation due to hair growth in the area, which interfered with intimate activities and hygiene during menstruation. Despite attempting to remove hair through shaving, this only resulted in further skin irritation. During the laser hair removal procedure, the laser power was reduced to prevent burning, particularly in sensitive areas like the small labia and anus. However, after the ninth session, the patient reported a significant reduction in hair growth in the bikini area.

Based on the cosmetologist’s examination of the skin before and after each procedure, the intervals between the main five procedures were determined to be between one and one and a half months. Over the course of the main procedures, the patient noticed a slowing of hair growth in certain areas. The interval between the sixth and ninth procedures was increased to two to two and a half months. Following the final procedure, the patient is scheduled for maintenance procedures 1-3 times per year, depending on the level of hair growth.

Remember

• Carefully choose the clinic where you will have laser hair removal: make sure that the clinic has a license for medical activity, a registration certificate for the equipment, and a diploma of medical education for the master. Read reviews about the clinic online.
• Consult with a dermatologist about contraindications for laser hair removal.
• Before laser hair removal, do not remove hair with methods that destroy the hair root, only shave.
• To completely get rid of hair in any area, several procedures will be needed. Check if the clinic has subscriptions, promotions, or “happy hours”, it will help you save money.

Sources:

• FAQs about laser hair removal – American Academy of Dermatology
• Medical aspects of laser hair removal – Journal of Dermatologic Treatment, 2004
• Are you thinking about laser hair removal? This is what you need to know – The Conversation, 2019
• Fitzpatrick skin phototypes – Melanoma portal
• Preparation for laser hair removal – American Academy of Dermatology