The Truth About Dreadlocks: Are They Really Harmful to Your Hair?

Keeping your dreadlocks properly maintained will prevent any harm to your hair or scalp, despite the stereotype that suggests otherwise.

What are dreadlocks and where did they come from?

Dreadlocks, which are thick strands of matted hair resembling ropes, were first mentioned in Indian religious texts where the god Shiva and his followers sported this hairstyle. Despite the first mentions dating back to 2500 BCE, dreadlocks were predominantly worn by members of small ethnic communities in Africa, India, and Jamaica for many years. However, with the emergence of reggae music in the 1970s, dreadlocks gained popularity as many of its performers sported the hairstyle, leading to its widespread adoption in the USA, Europe, and Asia.

While historically dreadlocks were formed through neglect, where individuals stopped styling and combing their hair and allowed it to mat into strands, city dwellers now primarily create dreadlocks using a method called backcombing. Hairdressers separate a strand of hair and either backcomb it from the ends towards the head, to help the hair tangle, or use a hook, resulting in the formation of dreadlocks that resemble felted wool.

What dreadlocks are criticized for

❌ Dreadlocks can cause hair loss.

Hairstyles that tightly pull the hair, including dreadlocks, ponytails, buns, and even very long hair, can increase the load on the hair follicles and result in inflammation and swelling of the scalp. This can cause hair to fall out faster and grow back slower than hair in individuals with free hairstyles or short hair.

If the pressure on the scalp is not reduced, there is a risk of losing an excessive amount of hair after two to three months. Over time, the damaged skin may scar, causing hair to stop growing altogether in that area. This condition is known as traction alopecia and is identified by dermatologists and trichologists.

American dermatologists recommend the following measures to prevent alopecia when sporting dreadlocks:

1. Braid several thick dreadlocks instead of many thin ones as thicker dreadlocks place less strain on the hair.
2. Keep dreadlocks short, no longer than shoulder length, including those made from artificial hair, to ensure the hairstyle is light enough to avoid skin and hair root damage.
3. Avoid bleaching dreadlocks as hydrogen peroxide not only destroys the pigment melanin, which is the coloring substance in hair, but also dries and makes them more brittle, which can damage the scalp and increase the risk of alopecia.
4. Allow dreadlocks to lie freely on the shoulders as much as possible, without tying them in a ponytail, to prevent excessive hair pulling and breakage.

Thick, light, and loosely braided dreadlocks do not harm the hair or scalp. Synthetic hair, such as kanekalon, is used to create safe dreads, also known as DE-dreads. DE-dreads are lightweight and are removed every two to three months to give the scalp a break. They can then be re-braided to maintain the hairstyle.

However, if a person experiences pain or burning for more than a few days after getting dreads or notices crusts on the skin under the hair a few weeks or months after visiting the hairdresser, they should change their hairstyle immediately.

Ignoring the pain can lead to irreversible scalp damage and hair loss. If a dermatologist confirms excessive hair loss or baldness, it’s best to hold off on getting dreads until the root cause is addressed.

❌ Dreadlocks are difficult to wash, and as a result, dandruff appears.

Poor hygiene or hairstyle is not a cause of dandruff, which is characterized by dry, white flakes of skin falling from the hair. However, in individuals who seldom wash their hair, dandruff may be more visible.

The precise reasons for dandruff are not fully understood. However, most dermatologists suggest that it is frequently related to inflammation induced by yeast fungi, which feed on skin sebum in some individuals. This condition is referred to as seborrheic dermatitis or seborrhea.

In uncommon cases, dandruff may be an indication of psoriasis of the scalp, which is a chronic non-infectious disease characterized by a red-pink rash with silvery scales that develop on the body.

The tangled strands of one’s own hair and the scalp have about two centimeters of space, which makes it easy to apply shampoo and rinse it out thoroughly, without any interference from dreadlocks. Washing DE-dreads, which are woven as close to the scalp as possible, does not pose any problems. Kanekalon dreads are not easily soiled, so washing them is as simple as applying diluted shampoo to the scalp, massaging it gently, and then rinsing off the foam.

People without seborrhea or psoriasis can wash their hair once or twice a week with any type of dreadlocks. However, individuals of European and Asian descent with seborrhea are advised to use an over-the-counter dandruff shampoo twice a week and wash their hair daily. People of African origin should wash their hair less frequently, every other day, as their hair tends to be drier and more brittle. They should alternate between an ordinary shampoo and a dandruff shampoo, using the latter only once or twice a week once the dandruff has subsided.

To treat psoriasis, you need to apply external medicinal products every day that have been prescribed by a doctor.

To get rid of dandruff, medicated shampoos should be used for two to four weeks in a row. If the dandruff does not disappear, you should consult a doctor to find another medicated shampoo.

❌ Dreads can develop mold

Mold has the ability to grow on any surface, including hair, including synthetic hair, provided they remain damp for extended periods. To avoid the growth of mold on dreadlocks, one should dry them several times with dry towels after washing and then ensure they are completely dried.

Air-drying is the most effective way of drying dreadlocks. However, it is advisable to use a hair dryer, set on a low temperature or use cold air, before going to bed.

❌ The only way to get rid of dreadlocks is to shave them off

You can try to untangle the dreadlocks yourself, but it is not necessary. To keep your hair healthy, first trim the ends, then wash with shampoo and apply a professional conditioner or hair mask. Afterward, you can attempt to comb the dreadlocks, moving from the end towards the head – this process may take several hours. Alternatively, you can visit a hair salon that specializes in dreadlocks where the stylists are skilled in untangling them.

What if you want to braid afro braids instead of dreadlocks?

The same rule applies to braids as it does to dreadlocks. You can keep this hairstyle clean and change it if desired without losing hair. If the braids are thick and not too long or heavy, wearing them does not cause harm. However, if you have noticed hair loss, it is best to see a doctor first.