Is Keratin Hair Smoothing a Safe Choice for Your Hair

Keratin hair straightening is a popular method for achieving sleek, straight hair and enhancing its overall look.

Keratin, a special protein found in your hair, plays a crucial role in its composition. In fact, healthy hair is primarily composed of keratin, which is why products containing this protein are widely used for hair care.

However, it’s important to be aware that many keratin hair smoothing products often include potentially harmful ingredients, making them a potential risk to your hair. Let’s dive into the reasons behind this.

What exactly is keratin hair straightening?

Keratin hair smoothing is a technique that temporarily straightens your hair using different formulations, all of which are rich in keratin or substances that mimic its effects. The results typically last anywhere from 3 to 6 months.

There are various methods of keratin hair straightening, with the most well-known being the American, Brazilian, and Japanese approaches. The key distinctions among these methods lie in the origin of the keratin smoothing formula and the specific compounds used to treat your hair, ensuring a long-lasting straightening effect.

The Hazards of Keratin Hair Smoothing: What You Need to Know

When it comes to keratin hair straightening, especially the popular Brazilian method, it’s essential to be aware of what you’re exposing yourself to. These treatments involve a mixture of harmless ingredients and a potentially toxic one – formaldehyde. Formaldehyde is a key component used to make the keratin in these products penetrate your hair, binding with the natural hair proteins.

Back in 2011, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) raised concerns about these products, warning that they posed risks not just to those getting the treatment but also to hairdressers handling them.

In Europe, cosmetic products are considered safe if they contain no more than 0.2% formaldehyde. However, studies suggest that even at such low concentrations, when the product is heated during the treatment process, it can release harmful fumes into the air. For comparison, Canada allows hair straightening products with up to 0.01% formaldehyde.

Some research has even found that formaldehyde levels in these products can go as high as 11%, and it has been detected in products labeled as “formaldehyde-free.”

The adverse effects of formaldehyde exposure include eye and respiratory irritation, headaches, breathing difficulties, dizziness, nausea, vomiting, rashes, and issues with the nervous system. Prolonged exposure can also lead to kidney damage and potentially contribute to the development of asthma.

To make matters worse, the International Agency for Research on Cancer classifies formaldehyde as a carcinogen. A study indicated that women who underwent keratin hair straightening had an elevated risk of uterine cancer. There’s also data suggesting that formaldehyde exposure increases the risk of bladder, lung, upper respiratory tract cancers, and non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma among professionals performing these procedures. Long-term exposure is even associated with a higher risk of leukemia and nasopharyngeal cancer.

For pregnant women, keratin hair straightening is not recommended due to concerns about potential harm to the fetus. In fact, there’s a concerning link between this procedure and childhood leukemia when performed during the first trimester of pregnancy or while breastfeeding. If you’ve already had the treatment and you’re a new mother, it’s crucial to prevent contact between the chemicals and your baby’s skin, possibly by tying your hair up.

But the dangers don’t stop there. Keratin hair smoothing isn’t just hazardous to your health; it can also wreak havoc on your hair and skin. The initial effects of the procedure are temporary, and regular touch-ups are required because your regrown hair will have a different appearance. Over time, keratin hair straightening can make your hair brittle, prone to split ends, thinner, curlier, and more porous. It might even cause premature graying and increased hair loss. Some evidence suggests that it can increase the risk of alopecia due to inflammatory processes on your scalp. And don’t forget the irritating ingredients in these formulations, which can trigger allergic reactions like contact dermatitis and hives.”

Is it possible to achieve straightened hair with keratin treatments that are free of formaldehyde?

Hair smoothing products marketed for use in both the United States and Japan are touted as safe alternatives to those containing formaldehyde. However, in order to achieve their straightening effects, these products must rely on alternative ingredients. They commonly substitute formaldehyde with compounds like methylene glycol, methanediol, acids, or other chemical agents. This substitution is necessary to achieve long-lasting hair straightening results.

It’s worth noting that when exposed to heat, such as the heat generated by straightening irons during the procedure, these formaldehyde derivatives can convert back into formaldehyde. In essence, these formulations bear similarities to standard formaldehyde-based products. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) also classifies these compounds as hazardous.

In addition to the potential risks associated with formaldehyde derivatives, some of the compounds used as formaldehyde substitutes may have toxic properties, causing skin irritation or effectively penetrating the skin. While not all of these substitutes have undergone the same level of extensive research as formaldehyde, there is some available data.

For instance, certain hair straightening products may contain glyoxylic acid, which has been linked to bloodstream infiltration and potential kidney damage. In Israel, medical professionals have reported several cases of such issues and subsequently banned products containing this particular ingredient.

How to properly do keratin hair smoothing:

If you’re considering getting a keratin hair straightening treatment, it’s crucial to make sure that the hairstylist uses a product with the lowest feasible amount of formaldehyde, ideally no more than 0.2% or even less.

As for the frequency of keratin hair straightening treatments, it’s not recommended to undergo the procedure more than three times a year. Additionally, please be aware that keratin hair straightening is not suitable during pregnancy and for individuals with scalp skin conditions.